Bruce Jack, Flagstone winemaker

Bruce Jack, cellar master of Flagstone Winery, crafted Word of Mouth Viognier 2008 from grapes grown in the cool ward of Elim and fermented 20% of the must in oak.  The result is an elegant, creamy wine that could stand shoulder to shoulder with a Condrieu, as we experienced at a recent tasting at Steenberg Vineyards.

Bruce, philosopher and writer, was on the path to becoming an academic when he recognised his passion and already extensive knowledge of South African wines and their producers. Happily for us local wine aficionados, he then worked several vintages offshore and completed a degree in oenology at the University of Adelaide in Australia before starting Flagstone Wines.

The first vintage was in 1999 and in 2008, Flagstone was bought by Constellation Wines, the world’s largest wine business, producing, marketing and selling a broad portfolio of wines. Bruce is the winemaker for the Flagstone, Fishhoek and Kumala labels. Kumula on its own produces 31.5 million bottles per year and is the biggest selling of all South African brands overseas.

Two Roads Chardonnay 2002, The Music Room Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, CWG Flagstone Love Handles 2004

His parents are an architect and a music teacher and their imprint on his life reflects in the lyrical, poetic descriptions of his wines and the thoughtful names he has given them. There is a story behind each one. The name Flagstone reflects the first broad-base tax levied by the French government after the revolution – a turning point for society. Word of Mouth is the only way to sell wine as apposed to adverts and award stickers on bottles, not that Flagstone wines are short of these.  This name underscores the power of social media marketing that more and more wine makers are embracing.  A favourite of mine is Two Roads Chardonnay 2002 named for Robert Frost’s thought provoking poem, The Road Not Taken.

His father’s influence also shows in the present home of Flagstone Winery which is in the original dynamite factory in Strand, Western Cape. On the site is a house designed by Sir Herbert Baker.

One of only 41 South African winemakers to belong to the prestigious Cape Winemakers’ Guild, Bruce has to craft two wines a year which are peer reviewed and qualified to be sold on the CWG Auction. The guild funds from this auction, social development investment for school children in the wineland areas and further education through the Protege Programme.

For all of the Old Mutual Trophy Wine Show results click here.

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The last time that such a poll was undertaken was in 2006. Reviewing the results Tim points out several aspects such as the fact that the top five wineries were in a league of their own; that ten of the Top 20 wineries were not even mentioned in the 2001 poll and that four wineries are complete newcomers to the poll.

From a perspective of production areas the winning wineries represent only one of the five South African wine regions, Coastal Region, and within that only the wine districts of Cape Point, Stellenbosch, Paarl and Swartland. The Overberg and Walker Bay districts where Paul Cluver, Hamilton-Russell Vineyards and Bouchard Finlayson are found do not fall into a particular region.

Parameters were set for the judging so that each winery had to have had at least three vintages of marketed wines.

In order of votes received the wineries are:

Boekenhoutskloof

Kanonkop and Sadie Family Wines which tied.

Cape Point Vineyards

Vergelegen

Hamilton-Russell Vineyards

Paul Cluver

Rustenberg

De Trafford, Meerlust and Thelema which tied

Bouchard Finlayson

Jordan and Tokara which tied.

Hartenberg

Le Riche, Neil Ellis and Steenberg which all tied.

Chamonix and Morgenster which tied.

On the voting panel were wine writers Tim Atkin, Michael Fridjhon, Joanne Gibson, Edo Heyns, Tim James, Angela Lloyd, Melvyn Minnaar, Fiona McDonald, Christine Rudman, Cathy van Zyl, Philip van Zyl.

Retailers: Carrie Adams, Carolyn Barton, Ingrid Motteux, Roland Peens, James Pietersen, Caroline Rillema

Sommeliers and others who took part were Miguel Chan, Neil Grant, Higgo Jacobs, Cathy Marston, Andre Morgenthal, Joerg Pfuetzner, Kent Scheermeyer and Jonathan Steyn.

For the complete article visit www.grape.co.za

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Higgo grew up in Calitzdorp in the Klein Karoo wine district of South Africa and no doubt developed a love for the complex, delicious port wines that the area is famous for.

Early in his career he made his mark by achieving an Advanced Certificate at the UK Wine and Spirit Education Trust as well as passing the Michael Fridjohn Wine Tasting Academy course with distinction. Higgo has worked for Jeroboams Wine Merchants and Anthony Byrne Fine Wines in London and has also served on many wine assessment panels.

Higgo is soon to open his own wine consultancy. He can be contacted at higgo.jacobs@steenberghotel.com or on (27) 21 7132222.

The flight of wines were:

Villiersdorp Kelder Rose 2009

A drinkable, honest, cheerful rose with freshness of fruit made from Muscat d’Alexandrie.

Jordan Riesling 2008

Showing drier than what it is with sugar levels that vary according to the vintage.

Thelema Muscat de Frontignan 2009

All Hanepoort and a great accompaniment to pate and charcuterie.

Domaine Huet Lemont Vineyard Vouvray 2005

Simonsig Gewurtztraminer 2007

A clean and straightforward wine which pairs well with spicy food.

Kanu KC Chenin blanc 2006

A winning wine which earned an Old Mutual Gold medal and a Veritas Gold medal.

Donhoff Spattlese Riesling 2007

This Riesling was voted wine of the night by the tasting group and originates from the Nahe wine-growing region of Germany.

Hazendal The Last Straw 2006

The Chenin blanc grapes were dried on straw mats to concentrate the sugar and reduce the must to give 200gm residual sugar to the finished wine.

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Constantia Fresh 2010

INTERNATIONAL SAUVIGNON BLANC TASTING   Date: Friday 26th February 2010

Time: 14h00 – 19h00

Cost: R1,500 per person

Venue: Buitenverwachting old cellar

Taste over 40 local and international wines from some of the best producers in the world, including wines from the Loire Valley in France and Marlborough in New Zealand. The tasting will be conducted by representatives from the regions and hosted by Master of Wine, Cathy van Zyl.

FINE DINING EXPERIENCE 

Date: 26th February 2010

Time: 19h30

Cost: R1,500 per person

Venue: La Colombe Restaurant, Constantia Uitsig

Experience matured sauvignon blanc and classic red wines from Constantia Valley and the Loire Valley, matched perfectly with dishes from award-winning chef, Luke Dale-Roberts.

INTERNATIONAL FRESHNESS IN RED WINES TASTING

Date: Saturday 27th February 2010

Time: 11h00 – 13h30

Cost: R700 per person

Venue: Groot Constantia Production Cellar

This international tasting has the objective of exploring and showcasing the freshness found in red wines, including wines from the Constantia Valley, France and Australia.

SAUVIGNON BLANC AND FOOD PAIRING EXHIBITION 

Date: Saturday 27th February 2010

Time: 15h00 – 20h00

Cost: R400 per person

Venue: Lawns of Buitenverwachting Wine Estate

30 Local and regional sauvignon blanc producers will showcase their wines alongside canapes from the top chefs of the Cape. The walk around tasting will be followed by a picnic with live entertainment rounding off the event. Expect to find producers’ wines from all of the main sauvignon blanc districts in South Africa – taste, sample and compare.

Tickets for the event can be obtained from the tasting room at Steenberg Vineyards or from Lida Van Heerden.

Tel: (27) 21 7132211

Email: lida@steenberg.co.za

www.constantiafresh.com

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The Toad wine list

This little tavern that could, has the atmosphere of an English country local, with an ample fireplace and seating beneath huge beams and thatch. The first delight was finding that we had arrived on a live music evening and later discovered that The Toad offers entertainment all week, including open mike sessions, quiz evenings and well known local musician performances. Not intrusive at all, the oldie numbers played created a great vibe.

At any eatery the first thing that grabs my attention is the wine list, which is so often disappointing and over-priced. The Toad offers a wide selection  of premium wines from many of the Western Cape’s top wineries and the mark-up is negligible so there is the sense that we got value for money which was also carried over in the food menu.

Impressively, the menu is put together by the previous head chef, Brad Ball, who now heads up the new Bistro Sixteen82 at Steenberg Vineyards and for pub grub, it can’t get much better than this. I went for the fresher than fresh beetroot and goat’s cheese salad while my partner tucked into a perfectly cooked (no garlic, no basting, just as it fell off the cow) sirloin steak. All of this served by Aaron, our waitron, who was helpful and informative.

Find The Toad in the Noordhoek Farm Village, Noordhoek or call on (27) 21 7892973 to make a table reservation.

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Constantia Valley Golden Oldies tasting was presented by Karl Lambour, winemaker at Constantia Glen since November 2006 and producer of  a top notch Sauvignon Blanc with a Bordeaux style blend waiting in the wings.  Dominique Hebrard of Chateaux Cheval Blanc is the winery advisor.

Constantia Valley white wines have fantastic ageing potential and  Karl mentioned as an example, a Klein Constantia Sauvignon Blanc being rated 5 stars in Wine Magazine 18 years after release!

The wines tasted are listed below with brief notes gathered from the comments of the wine aficionados at our table.

Steenberg Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 1996

Not a reserve wine, it presents an aromatic, floral, fragrant bouquet. On the palate there is a crisp acidity and a finish that goes on forever.

Constantia Uitsig Semillon Reserve 2003

Two different bottles were poured at our table, one screwcap and the other closed with cork. An interesting comparison revealed that the wine with a cork had aged prematurely but the wine in the screwcap bottle kept a clean freshness. The nose was forthcoming with woody cigar box notes.

Constantia Uitsig Blend 2003 – Semillon/Sauvignon

A typical Bordeaux style blend but with less oak treatment. The nose is fairly shy. A balanced wine with good aftertaste, very drinkable and a favourite at our table.

Klein Constantia Rhine Riesling 1994

This king of white grapes presented with concentrated diesel notes at first, typical of Rhine Riesling grown in a warmer environment. On the palate it is smooth, sweetish becoming dryer but retaining its fruitiness. It can easily go on for another six years.

Klein Constantia Vin de Constance 1992

A magnificent descendant of “Constantia” which was revered by dignitaries and aristocracy in the 18th century. Beautifully balanced and complex it is able to last a hundred years under the right conditions …… but then who wants to keep it?

Steenberg Nebbiolo 1999

The wine has a pale pinot noir like appearance with lovely cherry notes. It bursts onto the palate but with tannins which are subtle and silky and linger for ages.

Groot Constantia Gouverneurs Reserve 2001

This is big, spicy, food wine produced from 18 – 20 year old vines. Its beautifully integrated with soft tannins and a old aftertaste.

Steenberg Vineyards Catharina 2001

A favourite amongst the red wines tasted. It is fresh and smooth showing the Steenberg eucalyptus characteristic.

Karl’s harvest 2009 prediction is that because there was very little rain during harvest, we can expect outstanding whites and reds which are beyond reproach. This vintage is producing wines to buy and keep.

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