The Spice Route winemaker, Charl Du Plessis

Chatting to Charl at the new home of the Spice Route restaurant and tasting room on the slopes of Paarl Mountain, I asked how it was that he became  a winemaker. While studying viticulture at Elsenberg  College in Stellenbosch he was intrigued by the elite group of Cellar Technology students who wore t-shirts splashed with red wine and who converted an extra dormitory into a wine tasting laboratory which only they had access to. He was soon accepted into the course as one of only 10 students and remembers drinking classic 1970′s premium wines, (which formed part of research stock for the wine making course) at inter-varsity rugby games whilst most students were drinking Black Label or Carling.

Charles Back, owner of The Spice Route winery

More recently Charl was sought out by Charles Back, Spice Route owner to create his innovative wines. Charles has this to say about Charl:

The man has enormous passion for wine and pays incredible attention to detail – with talented winemakers it’s usually either the one or the other; it’s rare to find both in one. He has an incredible affinity for the Swartland and dryland viticulture.

Charles Back is one of the originators of the Swartland revolution in South African wine culture. He bought a farm near Malmesbury in partnership with Gyles Webb of Thelema, wine writers John & Erica Platter and wine activist Jabulani Ntshangase in 1997, although he soon bought over the shares of the other partners leaving him to develope Klein Amoskuil into The Spice Route Winery.

Restaurant interior

Select blocks of 40 year-old Chenin Blanc and  Pinotage were retained and unusual to the Western Cape, Mediterraen varieties, were planted: Shiraz, Mourvedre, Grenache, Petit Syrah, Barbera, Tannat, Sangiovese, Zinfandel, Carignan and Tempranillo. Viognier was established as a blending component for the rich, full-bodied, Rhone red cultivars. The Portugese grape, Souzao was also planted. These vines grow in deep composite soils without irrigation and benefit from the cool effect of the Atlantic ocean breezes. The resulting wines created by Charl and his team are of exceptional quality.

Currently these are The Spice Route wines with their prices ex cellar door:

Spice Route Sauvignon Blanc 2011 – R60.00

Spice Route Chenin Blanc 2010 light – R60.00

Spice Route Chenin Blanc 2010 – R60.00

Spice Route Viognier R90.00

Spice Route Mourvedre 2008 – R75.00

Spice Route Pinotage 2009 – R90.00

Spice Route Shiraz 2008 – R90.00

Spice Route Chakalaka 2009 – R110.00

Spice Route Syrah 2007 – R210.00

Spice Route Malabar 2006 – R350.00

My favourites? The flagship Syrah 2007 and Malabar 2006. The Viognier too is utterly delightful and a great friend of food.

Flagship wine, Malabar 2007

Visiting the new Spice Route restaurant with fellow bloggers last week I was amazed at how busy it was with large groups of diners and that after being open for only a couple of weeks. Relishing Chef Philip Pretorious’ cured linefish marinated in citrus with Szechuan pepper and wasabi mousse, and the traditional Indian butter chicken with rice pilaf, fresh roti and espresso foam, makes it easy to see why foodies are talking about this exciting new destination.

All of The Spice Route wines are served by the glass in the restaurant and there is no markup. From the tasting room a Sommelier Tasting of 6 wines is on offer for R35.00 per person and a deluxe tasting of 9 wines with samples of the dishes served in the restaurant for R90.00 per person.

Set to become The Biscuit Mill On Steroids, this family lifestyle venue will also be home to Jack Black Micro Brewery, a glass blowing studio and DV Artisan Chocolates.

The Spice Route Wines are sold at Caroline’s Fine Wine Shops and also at Makro if you need them in a hurry. Why not rather take the N1 out of Cape Town and visit the relaxing destination which has been created around these special wines?

Related posts:

1. Constantia Glen – a winery that I visit and love Cellar master at Constantia Glen since November 2006 is Karl...

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La Capra wines

That evening we paired our La Capra Shiraz with barbecued ostrich sausage and sirloin steak with delicious results.

Having a chance to review the entire range of La Capra wines at the public launch was a huge bonus which I grabbed with both hands.  This gypsy carnival was staged complete with oompah band, gypsy caravan and beautiful fortune teller in the form of Bridget Back, daughter of the renowned wine maker Charles Back, owner of Fairview estate.

Bridget lured us into her caravan with the promise of delightful potions and disappointed we were not.

The Chenin Blanc 2009 is perky and delicious, as are the Sauvignon Blanc 2009, Rose 2009 from Pinotage, and the Chardonnay 2009. A real treat for consumers who want to be more adventurous is that the range includes a Viognier 2009.

My favourite amongst the red wines is the Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 which is amazingly smooth with almost imperceptible oak. This can happily be drunk as an aperitif for those of us who simply can’t get enough red wine. To my mind, the Pinotage 2009, Merlot 2009 and Shiraz 2009 will compliment food really well. Also in the range is Malbec 2009 another more unusual variety wine which I will be scouring the supermarket shelves for.

All of these wines are accessible and perfect for drinking straight away.

Sipping to the sound of the Oompah Band

“What about the name?” I asked the gypsy princess.  My Italian being somewhat rusty I had missed the word capra meaning goat, referring of course to the Fairview goat herd from which the very first goat’s milk cheese was produced in South Africa. La rhymes with Ra the Egyptian sun god and Capra also points to the Cape Cap, suggesting a Cape to Cairo connection.

These wines are available at Fairview Estate for the unbelievable price of R200.00 per mixed 6 bottle case. Alternately they can be bought at Pick and Pay supermarkets in the Western Cape for between R35 and R42 per bottle.

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Paul Cluver Pinot Noir 2008 & Backsberg Pinotage 2008

In my opinion it pairs beautifully with roast, free-range chicken so that’s what we ate for dinner. This wine is smooth, balanced and medium-bodied. The lovely strawberry flavours give an illusion of sweetness yet it is quite dry and there is a long, dry aftertaste of clove and sour cherry.

What struck me when I nosed the wine, picking up on the sweet cherry and smokiness, is the similarity to Pinotage which is the result of  a crossing of Pinot Noir and Cinsaut to produce this hybrid grape. Since we had a Backsberg Pinotage 2008 on hand, we decided that it would be fun to have a comparison between the two.

Besides the common aromas,  the wines share great structure and harmony although the Pinotage is more robust, and married well with barbecued, ostrich steak. It is also higher in alcohol – 14.5% compared to 13.5% in the Pinot Noir. The finish is dry with intense woodiness and that bitterness is there which I always notice when quaffing Pinotage.

Both of these wines come highly recommended. At R51.00 ($6.5) the Backsberg Pinotage 2008 is a great find. Woolworths Reserve Paul Cluver Wines Pinot Noir 2008 sells for R150.00 ($19)

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La Capra presented by Fairview

We decided to try the La Capra Shiraz 2008 and very easily laid the bottle waste. There is are spice flavours galore on the palate like white pepper, clove and nutmeg, and the fruity yet dry flavours remind of eating pomegranates when I was a child. We think this wine goes very well with itself but it was also great with our sirloin and ostrich sausage braai. It’s beautifully balanced and sits on the palate forever after swallowing.

If I wanted to introduce a first time drinker to a Shiraz varietal wine, La Capra Shiraz is what I would reach for.

The quirky label reminds us that Fairview is home to goat herds and produces award winning cheeses.

These wines are available at the unbelievable price of R200.00 ($28.50) per mixed case from the farm.

La Capra Shiraz

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Beating the Australians hands down, South Africa came sixth overall after Chili, earning 80 medals. The winning country was France, followed by Spain, Italy, Portugal and Chili. 7,000 Wines and spirits were judged.

Here are South Africas winners -

Concours Mondial de Bruxelles

Grand Gold Medals

Engelbrecht Els 2007

Spier Private Collection Chenin Blanc 2008

Gold Medals

Almenkerk Sauvignon Blanc 2009

Backsberg Pumphouse Shiraz 2007

Boschendal 1685 Chardonnay 2009

Boschendal Sauvignon Blanc Grand Cuvee 2009

Douglas Green Chenin Blanc 2009

Drostdy-Hof Chardonnay 2009

Ernie Els 2006

Douglas Green Chardonnay 2009

Drostdy-Hof Chardonnay 2009

Fairhills Cabernet Sauvignon Petit Verdot 2009

Fairview Primo Pinotage 2008

Grande Provence Chardonnay 2008

Grande Provence Shiraz 2007

Guardian Peak Lapa Cabernet Sauvignon 2008

Hartenberg Chardonnay 2008

Kaapzicht Cabernet Sauvignon 2007

Kaapzicht Steytler Pinotage 2007

KWV 10 Year Old Potstill Brandy

KWV 20 Year Old Potstill Brandy

La Motte Pierneef Sauvignon Blanc 2009

Linton Park Proprietor’s Reserve Shiraz 2007

Mont Rochelle Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

Oude Meester Demant

Ridgeback Journey 2005

Riebeek Cellars Reserve Chenin Blanc 2009

Riebeek Cellars Reserve Shiraz 2007

Rust en Vrede Shiraz 2007

Saronsberg Shiraz 2007

Spice Route Chakalaka 2008

Spice Route Flagship Syrah 2007

Stormhoek Sauvignon Blanc 2009

Leopard Frog Vineyards Tantra 2005

KWV The Mentors Canvas 2008

KWV The Mentors Orchestra 2008

KWV The Mentors Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2009

Distell Three Ships Aged 5 Years

Distell Three Ships Bourbon Cask Finish

Distell Three Ships Select

Van Ryn’s 15 Year Old Fine Cask Reserve

Van Ryn’s 20 Year Old Collectors Reserve

Villiera Traditional Barrel Fermented Chenin Blanc 2009

Fairview Shiraz 2008

Hartenberg Sauvignon Blanc 2009

Kleine Zalze Family Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2009

La Motte Chardonnay 2008

Lourensford Winemaker’s Selection Chardonnay 2009

Naledi Cabernet Sauvignon 2008

Nederburg Viognier Chardonnay 2009

Remhoogte Estate Wine 2006

Ridgeback Shiraz 2007

Rust en Vrede 1694

Rust en Vrede Single Vineyard Syrah  2007

Saronsberg Chardonnay 2008

Saronsberg Provenance Shiraz 2007

Spice Route Malabar 2006

Spier Creative Block 2009

Spier Private Collection Chardonnay 2008

Spier Private Collection Pinotage 2007

Spier Private Collection Syrah 2007

Stormhoek Pinotage 2009

KWV The Mentors Petit Verdot 2008

KWV The Mentors Sauvignon Blanc 2009

Silver Medals

Boland Cellar Reserve No 1 2007

Boland Cabernet Reserve 2007

Boschendal 1685 Shiraz 2008

Boschendal Grand Cuvee Brut 2006

Bouchard Finlayson Kaaimansgat Chardonnay 2008

Cederberg Sauvignon Blan c 2009

Cirrus  Ernie Els Wines 2007

Boland Cellar Reserve No 1 2007

Boland Cabernet Reserve 2007

Boschendal 1685 Shiraz 2008

Boschendal Grand Cuvee Brut 2006

Bouchard Finlayson Kaaimansgat Chardonnay 2008

Cederberg Sauvignon Blanc 2009

Cirrus  Ernie Els Wines 2007

Distell Collison’s White Gold

Douglas Green Chardonnay 2009

Fairhills Cabernet Sauvignon – Petit Verdot 2009

Fairview Primo Pinotage 2008

Grande Provence Chardonnay 2008

Grande Provence Shiraz 2007

Guardian Peak Lapa Cabernet Sauvignon 2008

Hartenberg Chardonnay 2008

Kaapzicht Cabernet Sauvignon 2007

Kaapzicht Steytler Pinotage 2007

KWV 10 Year old Potstill Brandy

KWV 20 Year old Potstill Brandy

La Motte Pierneef Sauvignon Blanc 2009

La Motte Sauvignon Blanc 2009

Linton Park Proprietor’s Reserve Shiraz 2007

Mont Rochelle Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

Distell Nachtmusik

Oude Meester Demant

Ridgeback Journey 2005

Riebeek Cellars Reserve Chenin Blanc 2009

Riebeek Cellars Reserve Shiraz 2007

Rust en Vrede Shiraz 2007

Saronsberg Shiraz 2007

Spice Route Chakalaka 2008

Spice Route Flagship Syrah 2007

Stormhoek Sauvignon Blanc 2009

Leopard Frog Vineyards Tantra 2005

KWV The Mentors Canvas 2008

KWV The Mentors Orchestra 2008

KWV The Mentors Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2009

Distell Three Ships Aged 5 Years

Distell Three Ships Bourbon Cask Finish

Distell Three Ships Select

Van Ryn’s 15 Year Old Fine Cask Reserve

Van Ryn’s 20 Year Old Collectors Reserve

Villiera Traditional Barrel Fermented Chenin Blanc 2009

For the complete list of all the winners  click here.

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Bellvue Estate cellar

Dirkie Morkel is the fourth generation farmer on Bellvue farm which is situated in the Bottlery area between Stellenbosch and Kuilsriver. It was as far back as 1861 that the Morkels began to farm this land.  Some of the vines on the land that is to be mined are 56 year old Pinotage vines.

The Department of Mineral and Energy Affairs has given the go-ahead for the mining to take place. Dirkie Morkel is appealing against the decision and needs as much international and local help that he can get.

Emails can be sent to Corobrik and to the government at the following email addresses:

Department of Mineral and Energy Regional Manager Mr Sivuyile Mpakane sivuyile.mpakane@dme.gov.za

MD of the the mining company Corobrik Mr Dirk Meyerintmktg@corobrik.co.za

Western Cape Manager Mr. Christie van Niekerkchristie.vanniekerk@corobrik.com

I believe that those of us who live in the Western Cape should boycott Corobrik’s products and write to Mr Meyer telling him why.

Bricks can be bought any time but vines that have taken two generations to reach maturity are irreplaceable.

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Wellington Wine Harvest Festival

within a short distance of each other. Some of the Wellington wineries stretch over alluvial terraces towards the Swartland’s rolling hills and

Happening this weekend is the annual Wine Harvest Festival from Saturday until Monday with all of valley’s wine farms offering events such as musical entertainment; wine, brandy and grappa tasting; vintage cars and cricket; gourmet food tasting and much more.

The participating wine farms are 5 Mountains, Alkmaar Boutique Vineyard, Andreas, Bontebok Ridge, Bosman Family Vineyards,Bovlei Winery, Diemersfontein, Doolhof Wine Estate, Douglas Green, Dunstone Wines, Mont Du Toit Kelder, Nabygelegen Private Cellar, Oude Wellington Estate, Schalk Burger and Sons, Val Du Charron, Wamakersvallei Winery,  Wellington Cellar and Welvanplas.

My wine recommendations? Don’t miss the Andreas Shiraz and Dunstone’s award winning Shiraz. Schalk Burger & Sons have a big Bordeaux blend, Cricket Pitch and in the Meerkat range Burrow Blend is fantastic for everyday drinking. The Meerkat Chenin blanc is made from grapes off extremely old vines and has character you won’t expect from such a well priced wine. Diemersfontein wines are bold, beautifully crafted wines and offer an excellent example of pinotage.

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Kanonkop Estate

One of the premier Cape Town wine farms, Kanonkop bottled for the first time in 1973 and continues to gather awards - like three top International Wine and Spirit Competition 2009 placings. They were Winemaker of the Year for Abrie Beeslaar, Best Red Blend for the Paul Sauer and Best South African Producer overall. 

Wade Bales Wine Society and Cyber Cellar are the sole suppliers. The philosophy behind this exclusivity is explained by the estate co-owner, Paul Krige:

This wine is a highlight in Kanonkop’s history since the release of our first label in 1973. The first allocation to our two negocients will be 600 bottles with the next tranche of 400 bottles released a few months later once the market has determined the value of the wines.

With two negocients controlling the supply and demand, they will be able to buy back stock from willing sellers to sell on to parties willing to pay a higher price. This secondary market which the South African wine industry needs more of so as to establish itself as a producer of really premium wines, will open up a totally new set of dynamics in the wine industry, as well as create an appreciation for, and collectably of fine local wines. 

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Neethlingshof's magnificent avenue of stone pines

Over the years, modern farming techniques have discouraged the prevalence of owls and farmers have been reluctant to use chemical means to control them. Now farm management has noted that owls hunt by swooping on their prey from high positions so have erected tall owl posts where the mice cause the most damage. As a result the numbers of mice have decreased considerably.  Neethlingshof Estate is now linking the narrative of the return of the owls to wine marketing by naming a single-vineyard pinotage, The Owl Post.

A local wild cat, the caracal (rooikat), is also seen to be making a comeback. These beautiful mammals used to be prolific in the area until the middle of the last century when loss of habitat and natural prey reduced their numbers. There are indications that caracal have started breeding in the densely wooded areas around the granite hills on the farm possibly attracted by the large flocks of guinea fowl.

The flagship Bordeaux blend of the estate, Laurentius, is now named The Caracal to celebrate this victory for conservation.

Neethlingshof Estate is one of many Cape Town wine farms that are intent on conserving the unique Cape flora and fauna found is this part of South Africa.

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The Decanter tasting notes read:

Voluptuous, heady nose with very precise, black fruits, plums, mocha and tar. Full-bodied and opulent in the mouth, ripe and supple, fine-grained tannins with plenty of spice to enliven the finish.

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Interestingly enough, the competition attracted 139 entries, reflecting a growth of 190% in the number of entries received since the first competition in 1997 and including three entries from New Zealand.

King Pinotage producers, Kanonkop and Beyerskloof retained their places on the role of honour along with five first-time winners; Altydgedacht, Flagstone, Lyngrove, Onyx and Viljoensdrift.

Diemersfontein Pinotage wine

2009 Absa Top Ten Pinotage wines -

• Altydgedacht Pinotage 2008 (Durbanville)
• Beyerskloof Diesel Pinotage 2007 (Stellenbosch)
• Cathedral Cellar Pinotage 2006 (Coastal)
• Flagstone Writer’s Block Pinotage 2007 (Worcester)
• Kanonkop Pinotage 2005 (Simonsberg-Stellenbosch)
• Longridge Pinotage 2007 (Stellenbosch)
• Lyngrove Platinum Pinotage 2007 (Stellenbosch)
• Onyx Pinotage 2006 (Darling)
• Viljoensdrift River Grandeur 2008 (Robertson)
• Windmeul Reserve Pinotage 2008 (Paarl)

2009 Absa Top 10 Pinotage Competition judges

Ten Runners-Up

• Cathedral Cellar Pinotage 2007
• De Waal Top of the Hill Pinotage 2007
• Diemersfontein Carpe Diem Pinotage 2007
• Fort Simon Pinotage 2006
• Kanonkop Pinotage 2006
• Lesebo Pinotage 2007
• Simonsig Redhill Pinotage 2007
• Stellenzicht Cellarmaster’s Release Pinotage 2007
• The Bernard Series Bush Vine Pinotage 2007
• Wildekrans Barrel Selection Pinotage 2007

In summing up, James Slabbert, Managing Executive of Absa Coprorate and Business Bank, had this to say:

We have seen the standards and quality of Pinotage raise dramatically in the last few years. Our involvement in the Absa Top 10 Pinotage Competition was initially intended to help wine-makers improve the quality of the wine and to create benchmarks to which to aspire to. Today, wines that make it into the top ten have gone on to become benchmarks in the industry. The quality of the wine has improved to such an extent that being part of the Top 20 is now also being considered a significant achievement.

Definately wines to look out for when planning the next venison braai.

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Just ahead of Neil Pendock’s Pinotage: the soul of SA wine, Uk pinotage aficionado, F. Peter May has published Pinotage . For a synopsis go to Loot where it is available for R293.00.

Thanks for mentioning my book.

Please note that signed dedicated copies of the book may be obtained from me cheaper and quicker than listed by loot – £19.99 which equals R260 sent by airmail postage and purchasers should get the book in a week.

Details of the book can be seen and sample pages can be read at www.pinotagebook.com and the book can be ordered from there using credit card or Paypal.

Regards

Peter F May
www.pinotage.org
www.pinotagebook.com

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