January, 2010

Tulbagh – where time stands still

You would think that – driving down Church Street which is lined with national monuments of which there are 32 in Tulbagh. That is, until you learn that high-tech water management and advanced viticulture are practised here, realising the true potential of the valley to produce premium, internationally lauded wines.

Sculpture at Saronsberg

Sculpture at Saronsberg

Many of the old buildings survived or where rebuilt after the 6.3 Richter scale earthquake in 1969. Our weekend accommodation was one such Cape Dutch house built in the H shape with reed ceilings 4 meters high.

Just 90 minutes drive from Cape Town, this beautiful and fertile valley is almost completely surrounded by mountains; the Obiqua, Witzenberg and Winterhoek ranges. There are extreme variations of day and night temperatures here which together with the mountainous terrain creates different meso climates beneficial to the vineyards. The isolated effect created by the mountains allows many of the vineyards to be farmed organically such as Tulbagh Mountain Vineyards.

It's hung like a mule!

It's hung like a mule!

By far the most impressive farm we visited was Saronsberg Private Cellar . In 2003 under the guidance of winemaker Dewaldt Heynes, the cellar was established. His passion is clearly reflected in the magnificent wines he crafts like Shiraz 2006 which is one of the best expressions of the cultivar that we have tasted. Dewaldt, in an audio interview, describes his wines as big but elegant. Shiraz is where his focus lies as the quality of the grape in the Tulbagh Valley is amazing.

Wines from this cellar which also impressed us are:

Saronsberg Sauvignon Blanc 2008

Saronsberg Full Circle 2007

Saronsberg Seismic 2006

Nick & Forti’s Epicentre Red 2006

Nick & Forti’s Viognier 2008

Provenance Shiraz 2007

 

Saronsberg tasting room is an ultra modern space on different levels housing a fantastic collection of art works including a piece by William Kentridge and works by Norman Catherine.

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Two South African wines included on the Atrium’s tasting menu

Multiple award winning Edinburgh restaurant, Atrium is owned by Andrew and Lisa Radford and the head chef is Neil Forbes.  Recently, on a six course tasting menu two South African wines were included, which is fantastic recognition for the wine farms considering the huge choice of wines that Neil would have had.

6th January 2010

(4th Item on the menu)

Breast of Gressingham duck, fondant potato, roast butternut squash, thyme jus.

Hawequas, Mont du Toit 2006, Paarl

(6th Item on the menu)

Dark chocolate pithivier, coffee bean custard.

Noble Late Harvest, Kia-ors, Kanu, 2004, Stellenbosch

Mont du Toit is owned by Stephan du Toit, a Johannesburg based advocate and is in the Wellington ward of the Paarl wine district. Sadly, the 

Atrium restaurant

Atrium restaurant

Hawequas is for export only, which precludes us wine locals from enjoying it. It is a cabernet sauvignon blended with 5 other varieties in the 2006 wine.

Kia-ora, Noble Late Harvest 2004 is an outstanding, botrysised desert wine made from chenin blanc. The winery is the acclaimed Kanu in Stellenbosch.

 

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Jamie Goode reports on excellent South African wine performance in UK

One of the blogs I read regularly is that of Jamie Goode because of his interest in South African wines. In this post he noted the increase of South Africa’s biggest wine export destination, the UK. Jamie sumarised the report as follows:

  • South African wines acheived the largest increase in UK market share in 2009 (10.4% of market to 12.3%, off-trade by volume)
  • South African category grew by 24% in value and 23% in volume for the same period
  • South Africa’s market share is only 0.1% behind France which is in decline
  • Exports to the UK were up 14% by volume, maintaining the UK’s position as the leading export market for the South African wine industry accounting for 32% of total global exports
  • Success from South Africa’s top brands helped to drive the category: First Cape, Kumala, Arniston Bay and KWV all grew significantly
  • There was an uplift of 15% by value above 5 pounds, a 27% increase above 7 pounds and a 43% increase above 10 pounds   
  • On the Wines of South Africa website, CEO Su Birch makes the observation that there had been a year on year global increase of 7% for South African packaged wine exports in 2009 compared with a drop of bulk sales of 18% . This is seen as positive trend and could an important stage in the evolution of the South African wine industry.

    Wine corks

    Wine corks

    Strong growth in packaged South African wine exports last year were to Sweden (18%) and Canada (11%) as well as to Japan, Nigeria, Angola and China. The Netherlands, US and German markets had remained unchanged but Denmark had shown a decline of 5% which was partially offset by increased exports to Finland and Norway.

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    Chenin Blanc Challenge 2010

    The results are out for this year’s Chenin Blanc Challenge and it’s no surprise to note that the 11 wines which were awarded 4 stars and above had wood treatment creating complex, layered, age-worthy wines.

    As described in an earlier post on this blog, chenin blanc is the most planted and most versatile grape in South Africa and the wines range in price from super economical everyday wines priced at about R30.00 ($4) to R260.00 ($36) for the more elegant chenin styles.

    Listed here are the four and five star winners. For the complete awards list, please visit Wine Mag.

    Best Value Chenin Blanc

    Kleine Zalze Cellar Selection Bush Vines 2009

    Best Unwooded Chenin Blanc

    Simonsig 2007

    Best Wooded Chenin Blanc

    Kleine Zalze Vineyard Selection 2008

    Best Chenin Blanc Overall

    Kleine Zalze Vineyard Selection 2008

    Five star awards

    Kleine Zalze Vineyard Selection 2008

    Four and a half star awards

    Kanu KCB 2006

    Graham Beck Bowed Head 2008

    Simonsig Chenin Avec Chene 2008

    Four star awards

    Forest Hill, Fort Simon 2008

    Fort Simon 2008

    Simonsig Woolworths Limited Release Chenin 2008

    Stellenrust 44 2008

    Spier Private Collection 2008

    Land of Hope 2008, The Winery of Good Hope

    The FMC Forrester Meinert Chenin 2007

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    Woolworths announces their top wines for 2009

    Revealing the impressive list of award winning wines for 2009, Allan Mullins, Cape Wine Master and Woolworths (high end South African retailer) Wine Selector, had this to say:

    It takes a special kind of passion for wine, and a determination to keep sourcing, selecting and blending to come up with exceptional ranges of premium wines at the right prices. All the fantastic awards we have won this year show that Woolworths is fortunate to be in partnership with excellent winemakers who are as excited about innovation and quality as we are.

    Platter’s South African Wines 2010 – 5 Star – Superlative – A cape classic award 

    Limited Release Pinotage Diemersfontein 2008

    Limited Release Pinotage Diemersfontein 2008

    Woolworths Steenberg Sauvignon Blanc 2009

    Limited Release Spectrum TMV 2008 – Tulbagh Mountain Vineyards

    Limited Release Cape Point Sauvignon Blanc 2009

    Jordan Cobbler’s Hill 2005

    Veritas Double Gold award 

    Woolworths True To Terroir The Hutton Cabernet Sauvignon 2007

    Woolworths Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2007

    Veritas Gold award 

    Woolworths True To Terroir Koffie Klip Merlot 2007

    Woolworths True To Terroir and Abacus Chardonnay 2008

    Old Mutual Trophy Wine Show “Best Chenin Blanc” and “Best Overall White Wine” 

    Woolworths True to Terroir The Hutton Cabernet Sauvignon Blanc 2007

    Woolworths True to Terroir The Hutton Cabernet Sauvignon Blanc 2007

    Woolworths Limited Release Chenin Blanc – Simonsig 2008

    Michelangelo Awards Competition – Gold medals 

    1500 Wines from 263 producers were judged and Woolworths wines garnered the following accolades:

    Woolworths Simonsvlei Hercules Paragon Shiraz 2006

    Limited Release Diemersfontein Pinotage 2008

    Ladybird Red

    Of these wines nine are approved by Biodiversity in Wine initiative – BWI. This is a partnership between the South African Wine industry industry and the conservation sector having the goals to minimise the further loss of threatened natural habitat, and to contribute to sustainable wine production, through the adoption of biodiversity guidelines by the South African Wine industry. These wines carry the BWI label which depicts a sugar bird on a protea blossom.

    Tasting notes on all of these wines are available on request – simply use the comments field to ask.

    These wines are readily available at any Woolworths store throughout South Africa as well as on the website www.woolworths.co.za

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    Rust en Vrede Merlot 2008

    Since discovering Rust en Vrede wines at the Stellenbosch Wine Festival 2009, we have been huge fans enjoying the old world elegance and balance in those that we have tasted.

    Rust en Vrede Merlot 2008

    Rust en Vrede Merlot 2008

    As a festive season splurge we opened the merlot to experience a complex nose of dark fruit with a touch of spice. This full-bodied wine has great structure but with subtle oak, ripe plum and and long finish.

    We love the quotations by Thomas Jefferson on the back label.

    Rust en Vrede Merlot 2008 sells for R130.00 ($18) from the farm.

    Jamie Goode has praise for De Grendel white

    In his blog, Jamie Goode, multiple award winning wine journalist and wine judge, raved about De Grendel Winifred 2008, a blend of viognier, semillon and chardonnay, scoring it 91 points out of a possible 100.

    Jamie Goode

    Jamie Goode

    De Grendel is an historic farm in the Durbanville wine ward and has belonged to the Graaf family for three generations. It is currently owned by Sir David Graaf and Charles Hopkins, member of the Cape Winemakers Guild is the cellar master. The first vintage was in 2004 which was vinified at Graham Beck cellars and from 2006 the wines were made at the De Grendel farm.

    Winifred 2008 sells for R80.00 ($11) from the farm.

    It is hard to dispute that white blends are the strength of the Cape wine industry. Tim James discussed this in his recent blog post Ten Amazing Years for Cape Wine and made the following comment:

    Surely one of the finest and most exciting achievements of contemporary South Wine is the establishment of the white blend ……..

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    South African wines to score during 2010 Fifa World Cup Soccer

    According to an article in the Mail & Guardian, Su Birch, CEO of Wines of South Africa, expects increased global sales in 2010 as a result of South Africa hosting the Fifa World Cup Soccer tournament. 

    Wines of South Africa

    Wines of South Africa

    WOSA is a not-for-profit industry organisation which promotes the exports of all South African wine in key international markets, mainly United States, Canada, Germany, United Kingdom, Russia, Scandinavia and The Netherlands.

    Besides increased marketing by South African wine exporters and producers, WOSA intends presenting barbecue (braai – means to bake) festivals in key export nations which have qualified to compete. Coming in the northern hemisphere spring, these are sure to attract plenty of attention and help to lure people out of hibernation. Leading European supermarket groups are eager to present SA wine promotions ahead of the World Cup. The estimated 450,000 visitors to our shores, will be as delighted as we are to be able to purchase premium wines for less than $15.

    No that this sales boost is expected to make a difference to the industry in the future – the South African rand has strengthened against the US dollar by 30% which is a concern.

    On another note, FIFA has an agreement with the historic winery, Nederburg, to make and market a limited, three edition range of wines for the tournament which will be cabernet sauvignon, a rose and a sauvignon blanc.

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    Groote Post Sauvignon Blanc 2008

    In the long, dry days of Cape Town summer, a well chilled, crispy white wine is to me the perfect drink.

    Groote Post Vineyards sauvignon blanc 2008

    Groote Post Vineyards sauvignon blanc 2008

    Sauvignon blanc can never be a great South African variety except for when it is blended with semillon, Bordeaux style. Local varietal wines vary from ripe fruit, easy drinking wines to more austere, flinty styles with green apple and lime on the palate, often made from grapes at high altitude and close to maritime winds.

    Groote Post sauvignon blanc falls into the latter category. It’s well balanced and great as an aperitif because of the palate cleansing lime flavour. Selling from the farm at around R62.00 which is rather more than we would spend on an everyday wine, it is well worth the splurge.

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