Tim Atkin’s top 25 South African wines

Tim Atkin British Master of Wine, columnist for The Observer amongst other publications, is also a wine judge and author. He is linked to South Africa and it’s wines by having visited here 12 times since 1991, is married to a South African and on his last visit alone tasted wines from as many as 96 producers.

Decanter wine magazine asked for his list of 25 favourite South African wines which are available for purchase in the Uk and here is what he came up with and his comments about each wine: 

White Wines

Cape Point, Isliedh, Noordhoek (18.5/20)

Duncan Savage thinks he hasn’t hit his full potential yet. Heaven help his rivals when he does. This ageworthy, barrell-fermented Sauvignon-Semillon is the Cape’s Domaine de Chevalier.

Ken Forrester, The FMC Chenin Blanc, Stellenbosch 2008 (18.5)

Ken Forrester’s turbo-charged, barrel-fermented, bushvine-sourced FMC is rich, honeyed and toasty, with lashings of new oak and ripe tropical fruit.

Hamilton Russell, Chardonnay, Hemel en Aarde Valley 2008 (18.5)

The competition to make the Cape’s best Chardonnay gets more ferocious by the vintage, but Hamilton Russell is still (just) out in front. This is a superb Burgundian-style white, with oak, minerality and citrus fruit in near perfect harmony.

Tokara, White, Stellenbosch 2007 (18.5)

As at Vergelegen, the top white wine here just pips the red for complexity and broad appeal. This blend of Sauvignon with 15% Semillon is leesy and rich, with elegant oak, toast and remarkable freshness for such a big wine.

Vergelegen, Flagship White, Stellenbosch 2008 (18)

Andre van Rensburg would argue that all the wines he makes are brilliant, but a few stand out from an excellent range. This equal blend of Sauvignon and Semillon is his best white, yet: grapefruit, honeysuckle, toast and a fine herbal finish.

Atraxia, Chardonnay, Western Cape 2008 (18)

Kevin Grant used to make the wines at Hamilton Russell until 2004 and clearly learned a few things about Chardonnay there. This creamy, elegant, beautifully focused Chardonnay from Elgin and Hemel en Aarde fruit is a star.

Cape Chamonix, Chardonnay Reserve, Franschhoek 2008 (18)

Gottfired Mocke makes some of the Cape’s most refined wines: this dry-farmed, barrel-fermented, Puligny-like Chardonnay is at the top of the pile: fresh, toasty and superb balance. 

Groot Constantia, Sauvignon Blanc, Constantia 2009 (18)

An excellent followup to 2008 from an historic property no longer over-shadowed by other local producers. Citrus fruit, green fig and green pepper intermingle in this zappy, zesty white.

Neil Ellis, Sauvignon Blanc, Groenekloof 2008

Neil Ellis makes great red and Chardonnay, but I think this Sauvignon is his best wine. Depth of gooseberry and a hint of tropical fruit with taut minerality and impressive concentration.

Steenberg,Semillon, Constantia 2008 (18)

Why isn’t there more Semillon in the Cape? Many out there are delicious like this barrel-fermented, low-yielding one: rich, textured and herbal with crunchy green bean and buttered toast notes.

Raats, Chenin Blanc, Stellenbosch 2008

Bruwer Raats makes the Cape’s best Cabernet Franc and one of it’s outstanding Chenins. It’s tighter and more focused than many, with subtle oak, intense apple, quince and vanilla flavours and bright, palate-cleansing acidity.

The Foundry, Grenache Blanc, Swartland 2009 (17.5)

As well as making the wines at Meerlust, Chris Williams has his own brand. His Syrah and Viognier are both top notch, but this minerally, lightly oaked example could outdo them both.

Red Wines

Sadie Family, Columella, Swartland 2007 (19/20)

When I tasted the eight components of this wine from barrel, I thought it was one of the greatest Cape reds I’d ever tried. Now it’s in the bottle, I’m not changing my mind: violets, plums, liquorice and very fine, savoury tannins.

De Toren, Fusion V, Stellenbosch 2007 (18.5)

A deceptively forward yet classic blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc, 15% Malbec, 10% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot. I love it’s freshness allied to subtle oak and cassis and chocolate notes.

Engelbrecht Els, Proprietor’s Blend, Stellenbosch 2006 (18.5)

Ernie Els’ reds are as smooth as his legendary golf swing. This blend of five Bordeaux varieties plus 20% Shiraz is huge, but its alcohol is balanced by rich fruit and fine tannins.

Waterford,The Jem, Stellenbosch (18.5)

Since the first Jem in 2004, Waterford has shifted into another gear. This Cabernet-based blend of seven French and Italian varieties is powerful, perfumed and complete.

Boekenhoutskloof, The Chocolate Block, Western Cape 2008 (18)

Marc Kent’s straight Syrah and Cabernet are more classic but this wacky blend of Syrah, Grenache, Cabernet, Cinsault and Viognier is perfumed, smooth, spicy, complex and packed with blackberry and apricot fruit.

Kanonkop, Pinotage, Stellenbosch2008 (18)

I chose the straight Pinotage over the Paul Sauer and Bush Vine Pinotage, as it’s a great example of what the variety can do: silky tannins, voluptuous red fruit, spicy oak and harmonious balancing acidity.

Hartenberg, The Stork Shiraz, Stellenbosch 2005 (18)

One of a handful of thrilling Syrahs made in the Cape, Carl Schultz’s has a New World style, with a nod to the Barossa Valley rather than Hermitage. Bramble, blackberry and liquorice, with lashings of oak.

Meerlust,Rubicon, Stellenbosch 2004

Chris William’s first vintage at this historic Cape winery brought about substantial improvements. This blend of 60% Cabernet, 27% Merlot and 13% Franc is ripe, yet extremely elegant, in a Cape-meets-Margaux style.

Rustenberg,Peter Barlow, Stellenbosch 2005 (18)

Unusually for a top Cape wine, this is entirely Cabernet Sauvignon. Super-ripe, bold and expressive, with masses of oak and cassis fruit, yet with dense tannins that need time to unfurl.

Vilafonte, Series C, Paarl 2005 (18)

Mike Ratcliffe’s venture with Californians Zelma Long and Phil Freese has yielded two excellent wines, M and C. I just prefer the latter, based on Cabernets Sauvignon and Franc. Serious, dense, Bordeaux-like with great ageing potential.

Thelema, Merlot, Stellenbosch 2007 (17.5)

Thelema has been around for so long it often gets overlooked, despite its brilliance. Its Limited Release Reserve Merlot is the best example of the grape in South Africa, but this isn’t far behind. Mint, chocolate and grainy tannins.

Top Sweet Wines

De Trafford Straw Wine, Stellenbosch 2006 (18.5)

South African critics get very excited about David Trafford’s reds, but I prefer his Chenins, especially this remarkable straw wine made from air-dried grapes, with it’s notes of vanilla oak, honey, dried fruits and tarte tatin.

Tulbagh Mountain Vineyards, Vin Pi Two, Tulbagh NV (18.5)

TMV makes some of my favourite Cape Rhone-style reds but this solera-produced Chenin is exotic, floral, yet smoky with flavours of creme caramel, dried fruits and 300 grams per litre of sugar. 

For Tim’s full article,  please follow this link -Tim Atkin’s top South African wines 

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