December, 2009

Chenin blanc tasting at Steenberg Vineyards

Passionate and enthusiastic winemaker at Steenberg Vineyards, J.D. Pretorius, presented a tasting of  top South African chenin blanc wines. 

Also known as steen locally, South Africa produces even more chenin blanc than France’s Loire Valley. It is used for everything from generic dry white wines to age-worthy premium wines to ambitious sweet wines to brandy. The typical flavours are of yellow apples, litchi, ripe pineapple, ripe melon and the grape has a natural high acidity. In the 1960’s in South Africa it was popularised in a blend with crouchen blanc known as Lieberstein which at the time was the largest selling bottled wine in the world.

Steenberg Vineyards winemaker J.D.Pretorius

Steenberg Vineyards winemaker J.D.Pretorius

In the Swartland wine district chenin blanc vines aged up to 100 years are being revived by progressive wine makers like Eben Sadie and Adie Badenhorst to name only two. JD explained that the wines from this fruit have structure and backbone showing the natural harmony of the vine without needing manipulation in the cellar.

A lovely example of this is Mrs Kirsten’s Old Vines 2006 released last year and made by Eben Sadie. The vineyard belonging to Mrs Kirsten had patches that are as old as 100 years and was of course, no longer viable. Eben persuaded her not to pull out the vines and the wine he made sold out at R824  ($110).  He plans to farm the vineyard for another 10 years.

A cross section of different Sout African chenin blanc styles of wine were tasted and they were:

Wildekrans Methode Cap Classique 2007

An all chenin, maiden bubbley with an explosive mousse.

Mooiplaas Chenin Blanc 2009

The 2008 vintage of this wine was the winner of the 2009 Chenin Challenge.

Beaumont Chenin Blanc 2009

Produced from old vines.

Graham Beck Gamekeeper’s Reserve Chenin Blanc 2009

This chenin delighted the tasting group as one of the best of the evening. Graham Beck Brut is said to be Michelle Obama’s favourite bubbley and was served to celebrate the US presidential election.

De Trafford Chenin Blanc 2008

De Trafford Chenin Blanc 2008

Beaumont Hope Marguerite 2008

An impressive wine which was awarded 5 stars in the Platter’s South African Wines 2010.

Cederberg Five Generations 2007

At 1,200 meters above sea level, these are the highest vineyards in the Western Cape. The land has been farmed by five generations of David Niewoudt’s family. The winery has been a winner for 2 years running of a Decanter Award for the shiraz and has been awarded Waitrose Supplier of the Year for Innovative Farming.  This wine is one of the best of the evening.

Graham Beck Bowed Head Chenin Blanc 2008

A delicious, barrell-fermented complex wine.

De Trafford 2008

The labels are designed by Rita Trafford, wife of David, internationally celebrated, artisanal wine maker.

Rijks Private Cellar 2007

An elegant wine which was part barrell fermented. Also a favourite of the tasting group.

Mulderbosch Steen Op Hout 2008

A mouth-filling with a dash of chenin blanc noble late harvest.

Raats 2005

Iconic, ambitious wine maker Bruwer Raats focuses on cabernet franc and chenin blanc. His cabernet franc has been rated in blind tastings as superior to Cheval Blanc 2004. Likewise his Chenin Blanc 2002 was favoured over two famous Loire wines.

Rudera Rubusto 2007

From a specialist chenin blanc producer, this wine is satisfying and complex.

What are the health pros and cons of drinking wine?

I found this in-depth report on Decanter.com discussing this topic.

Tim Atkin’s top 25 South African wines

Tim Atkin British Master of Wine, columnist for The Observer amongst other publications, is also a wine judge and author. He is linked to South Africa and it’s wines by having visited here 12 times since 1991, is married to a South African and on his last visit alone tasted wines from as many as 96 producers.

Decanter wine magazine asked for his list of 25 favourite South African wines which are available for purchase in the Uk and here is what he came up with and his comments about each wine: 

Tim Atkin MW

Tim Atkin MW

White Wines

Cape Point, Isliedh, Noordhoek (18.5/20)

Duncan Savage thinks he hasn’t hit his full potential yet. Heaven help his rivals when he does. This ageworthy, barrell-fermented Sauvignon-Semillon is the Cape’s Domaine de Chevalier.

Ken Forrester, The FMC Chenin Blanc, Stellenbosch 2008 (18.5)

Ken Forrester’s turbo-charged, barrel-fermented, bushvine-sourced FMC is rich, honeyed and toasty, with lashings of new oak and ripe tropical fruit.

Hamilton Russell, Chardonnay, Hemel en Aarde Valley 2008 (18.5)

The competition to make the Cape’s best Chardonnay gets more ferocious by the vintage, but Hamilton Russell is still (just) out in front. This is a superb Burgundian-style white, with oak, minerality and citrus fruit in near perfect harmony.

Tokara, White, Stellenbosch 2007 (18.5)

As at Vergelegen, the top white wine here just pips the red for complexity and broad appeal. This blend of Sauvignon with 15% Semillon is leesy and rich, with elegant oak, toast and remarkable freshness for such a big wine. Read more of Tim Atkin’s top 25 South African wines

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The 19th hole

Unlike Tiger Woods, pro-golfer David Frost has his off-course focus on less controversial, more gratifying pastimes. He has collaborated with Perdeberg Winery on the David Frost Signature Series range of wines including the shiraz 2008. This wine offers excellent value for money at only R27.99 from Pick and Pay.

David Frost Signature Series Shiraz 2008

David Frost Signature Series Shiraz 2008

It’s full bodied and typical of shiraz  with the white pepper on a long finish, except that in this wine there is more up-front fruit . Interestingly enough the wine is unwooded and yet paired beautifully with our barbecued lamb chops.

David Frost Estate in Paarl also serves as the visitors’ center for the Voor Paardeberg wine ward.

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Bottle Shock movie review

Sideways, the little movie about 2 guys on a road trip through Santa Barbara wine country, emphasizes some of those special aspects of wine such as each harvest being different from the previous ones and grape varieties having unique qualities to impart to the wine.

Now comes Bottle Shock starring Alan Rickman, Chris Pine and Bill Pullman which tells the story of the wine competition on 24th May 1976 organised by British wine merchant Steven Spurrier. This became known as The Judgement of Paris in which French judges did blind tasting of top quality chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon wines from France and California. In both the red and white categories the American wines beat the French bring New World wines to attention of wine aficionados all over.

Bottle Shock movie

Bottle Shock movie

The Californian cabernet sauvignon wines tasted were:

Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars 1973

Ridge Vineyards – Monte Bello 1971

Heitz Wine Cellars – Martha’s Vineyard 1970

Clos Du  Val Winery 1972

Mayacamas Vineyards 1971

Freemark Abbey Winery 1969

 

And the Bordeaux wines:

Chateau Mouton-Rothschild 1970

Chateau Montrose 1970

Chateau Haut-Brion 1970

Chateau Leoville Las Cases 1971

 

Californian chardonnay wines tasted:

Chateau Montelema 1973

Chalone Vineyard 1974

Spring Mountain Vineyard 1973

Freemark Abbey Winery 1972

Veedercrest Vineyards 1972

David Bruce Winery 1973

 

And the Burgundies:

Meursalt Charmes Roulot 1973

Beune Clos des Mouches Joseph Drauhen 1973

Batard-Montrachet Ramonet-Prudham 1973

Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles Domain Leflaive 1972

 

Steven Spurrier comments:

There is hardly a word that is true in the script and many, many inventions as far as I am concerned. 

Don’t let that put you off - the story line is well thought out and enjoyable although there are the inevitable Hollywood moments. It focuses on heroic forces, the philosophy and passion of Napa Valley winemakers and is very human. As the telling of a pivotal event in modern wine history it is a must to see.

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Champagne and Method Cap Classique

Allan Mullins, Cape Wine Master and wine selector for the major South African retailer Woolworths, presented a tasting of Method Cap Classique wines from the Constantia Valley as well as a French champagne from Alexander Bonet which is sold exclusively at Woolworths under the label, Comtess Alexia. Allan’s extensive knowledge provided many interesting bubbly facts pointing out that champagne sales have fallen as a result of the recession but that demand for cap classique which is made in the traditional French manner is at an all time high. Best to get our festive season stocks in while they are available. Oozing humour and personality, Allan seasoned his talk with a mousse of hilarious anecdotes.

Alan Mullins

Allan Mullins and his beautiful wife, Therese

It is interesting to note that Archim von Arnim of Cabriere who famously opens bottles with a sabre, was the pioneer of champagne in South Africa in the early eighties.

On tasting champagne Allan mentioned that the best glasses have imperfections which allow the mousse to fizz better. If glasses are not up to scratch simply take a diamond and roughen up the surface.

The venue was the unique and spectacular new cellar door Bistro, 1682, at Steenberg Vineyards which has views across the Constantia valley with False Bay in the distance.  This interesting food and wine destination has everything to entice visitors to stay and soak up the beautiful surroundings.

These are the wines that we enjoyed with Allan:

Duncan enjoying the Bistro 1862 deck

Duncan enjoying the Bistro 1862 deck

Steenberg Chardonnay MCC 2008

Steenberg Pinot Noir MCC 2006

Klein Constantia Brut 2006

Groot Constantia Cap Classique 2004

Constantia Uitsig MCC 2006

High Constantia Clos Andre 2006

Buitenverwachting Brut MCC

Comtess Alexia (Alexander Bonet)

 

 

Winston Churchill was an aficionado of Pol Roger champagne and made this well known statement:

In victory, deserve it

In defeat, need it

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Jancis Robinson’s top South African white wines for 2009

Jancis Robinson, OBE, Master of Wine and one of the world’s leading authorities on wine has revealed her eagerly awaited top white wines list for 2009.  Unsuprisingly 9 are South African wines of origin.

Jancis Robinson, OBE, MW

Jancis Robinson, OBE, MW

Sadie Family, Palladius 2007/2008

AA Badenhorst, Secateurs Chenin Blanc 2009

Paul Cluver, Sauvignon Blanc 2008

Tulbagh Mountain Vineyards, TMV White 2008

Mullineux White 2008

Sequillo 2007

Waterkloof Sauvignon Blanc 2008

Diemersdal Estate Chardonnay 2008

Porcupine Ridge Sauvignon Blanc 2009

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2009 Fairtrade Wine Committee competition

The Fairtrade Wine Committee has just announced the winning wines in it’s fourth competition which aims to raise awareness of the high standard of Fairtrade wines on offer. The Fairtrade Foundation was established in 1992 with a vision of a world in which justice and sustainable developement are at the heart of trade structures and practices. Everyone, they believe should maintain a decent and dignified liveliehood and develope their full potential. Noble ideals without a doubt. 

Fairtrade Foundation

Fairtrade Foundation

Wine is one of the fastest growing Fairtrade products as awareness amongst producers and consumers grows.

South Africa scooped the most awards for it’s wines as well as earning the ethical award from the Uk trade publication, The Drinks Business for the WOSA  project to train 2,000 wine stewards ahead of the 2010 FIFA World Cup.

The winning wines are:

Isabelo Pinotage 2008 – Best Overall Fairtrade Wine

Produced by UK brand Cape Promise.

Six Hats Sauvignon Blanc 2009

 

Co-operative Fairtrade Cape Sparkling Rose NV

Produced by Du Toitskloof Cellars.

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